Throughout the majority of my life, the ocean has been within minutes from my house. Surfing has always served as a way to escape the uncertainties and anxieties of the real world. The sheer thought of surfing waves rejuvenates my energy. The burdens and worries in life are left on the shore and erased and forgotten when I paddle out. Although the rest of my life is fairly structured with school, work, and other obligations, the time I spend in the ocean has no schedule. When I take off on a wave, nothing else in the world matters. For those ten or fifteen seconds I am truly free. My interest in surfing comes from the ability to create a masterpiece on a moving canvas, one that can never be created again. I am able to string together a unique combination of turns unlike anyone else. Surfing offers me an outlet for creativity not always present in other aspects of my life.
Having grown up in a town ranked the number two surf town in America, the surfing community has been a huge part of my life. By coming from such a laid-back environment, going to school in Los Angeles can be very hectic and at times overwhelming. Time seems to move at a much faster pace. In order to take a break and slow things down, I make sure to go to the beach as much as possible. By moving away from an environment so conducive for surfing, I have developed a greater appreciation for the time I spend in the water. I aspire to always stay in contact with the ocean regardless of what else I’m doing in life.
After getting out of the water from a good session, a calming sensation streams through me and I become at ease. This feeling can last days and even weeks depending on the magnitude of the session. It makes all the challenges that I face on a day to day basis worth tackling. And when the stresses of everyday life begin to build up again, my cure is simple. Go Surfing.
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