Why Do I You Do What You Do?
I was 13 years old when I was first drawn into the magic of what the ocean had to offer. It was then, that I knew, that what ever I did in life would be for one thing, and that would be to stay close and in touch with the ocean. What really connected me to the it was when I first got barreled surfing. It is almost an impossible to explain the feeling and emotional impact of getting barreled but I can say that it is beyond anything I have ever felt before. It is right then and their, in that barrel, where I actually feel apart of the ocean. That it is flowing through me and that I am meant to be in it. Not only do all the elements have to come together perfectly to create waves and barrels, you also have to have the skill to get inside one. From that day I knew getting barreled was what I wanted to do and what I would peruse throughout life.
The ocean itself magical for me, whether I can surf its waves, explore its underwater world or be cleaned by its water it has always been something I can not live without. I go through each day to get an education, so I can get a job, so I can make enough money, to have a house near the ocean, and so I can travel it and experience all the wonderful things it has to offer. Lets not forget to get barrels and live in that moment inside the wave where I feel that everything in life stops and I am in a different word. I guess that is why I do it. Too live for that one moment, where everything else disappears, and life is simple and easy.
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